During our stay in Dubrovnik (Croatia) we wanted to make a day trip to one of the neighbouring countries, just to have a taste for any possible future travels. Before we took of we bought ourselves a little picnic at the local bakery in Dubrovnik and rented a car at Discovery Car Rental. We crossed the border at Ivanica / Gornji Brgat and headed of to Mostar in Bosnia and Herzegovina, mostly through barren landscapes.
Mostar has a couple of very pretty touristy streets, among which Onešćukova, Jusovina and Kujundžiluk. Including the beautifully restored Stari Most (old bridge), 25 years after it was destroyed during the Yugoslav War.
Kujundžiluk (gold alley), is the oldest part of the city. The street is lined with artisan shops selling traditional handicrafts.
The highlight of our trip was this historic old house. Once the harem section of a larger homestead built for a 16th-century Turkish judge. It still belongs to descendants of the original family.
The roof was lost in wartime bombardments but otherwise the pretty, half-timbered structure stayed remarkably intact.
Since we came knocking on the door off season, we were lucky the owner was home and willing to provide us with a little bit of background while we sipped homemade pomegranate juice in the courtyard.
It's not all rainbows and butterflies in Mostar. When you venture outside the touristy streets you still come across a multitude of damaged buildings.
Luckily we decided not to stay for dinner and head back to Dubrovnik before dawn. It turned out the roads weren't exactly illuminated, it was pitch black the last bit of the journey.
© 2026 Ellen